Classy Kimonos, Buddhist Temples, and Shinto Shrines

For the first time ever, LeRon did the research and hotel and train bookings for this trip to Japan.  In all our years of travel, I have done the planning and bookings and I wondered what kind of trip LeRon would plan.  But I should have known.  When LeRon researches, he researches thoroughly.  Plus, he knew what he wanted to see again.

In his research, he discovered some wonderful youtube videos about traveling in Japan, which helped immensely.  If you're interested in traveling to Japan, google for Abby from PiQtour Japan.  She's an American photographer living in Japan (and married to a Japanese) who runs a tour company and also puts up videos with great tips.  We learned very important things:

• We learned that there is NO TIPPING in Japan.  People are paid enough that they don't need to depend on tips.  In fact, if you tip them, they will give it back and they may even be offended, wondering if they have given you good enough service.  

• We also learned that Japan is very clean but you will not find public garbage cans.  People carry their garbage home with them.  I have never seen such clean train stations and parks.  So nice.

• Convenience stores in Japan have amazingly good products (unlike in western convenience stores).  Called "Konbini" (pronounced con-bee'-nee), they are known for quality meals, great pastries, and delicious egg salad sandwiches.  They provide hot and cold food, tickets, ATMs, bill-paying services, mail pick-up, and the usual items.  Fast service here in Japan does not mean low quality.  For more information, see https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2071.html.  Sounds like many people shop here on a regular basis, not just tourists.

Now on to the pictures . . . Today we're in Kyoto, which was Japan's imperial capital for thousands of years.  It's famous for Buddhist temples, Shinto shrines, and Geishas (who are are female artists of traditional music and dance).  Here in Kyoto, they are called geiko rather than geisha.  A geiko in training is called a maiko, meaning "dancing child." 

Be sure to click on the pictures to enlarge.

A video by Abby from PiQtour suggested renting kimonos as a fun touristy thing to do.  She said that Japanese people think it's great when a tourist does it.  So we did it.

They curled my hair with electric curlers (haven't seen those for many years) after they dressed me up in the many layers that make the kimono.  First there's a slip-type dress, then an under-kimono dress, then the actual heavy kimono and the obi sash (which is always tied in a certain way).  Makes for a very hot dress!  Plus, it's quite tight so you have to walk in baby steps.  We saw many Japanese girls wearing kimonos in the streets of Kyoto.

A photographer led us around the Maruyama Park and the Yasaka Shrine and took many pictures.  Here's my white-headed-looking LeRon in his kimono.

The photographer always wanted us to "look at each other, then look at me."  We felt a little silly.  We're really not much into photo shoots.  But the backgrounds are interesting and it was fun, though extremely hot.

The Yasaka Shrine is a Shinto shrine (as opposed to a Buddhist temple).  I took a World Religions class at BYU where I learned about Buddhism and Shintoism but I don't remember much anymore.  We should be more aware and respectful of other religions.

Now LeRon is holding a traditional umbrella.  I am wearing the split-toe socks that separate the big toe from the other four toes, as well as the zōri thong-type sandals that truly hurt my feet.  LeRon chose not to wear the wooden split-toe sandals called getas as they are also super uncomfortable and hard to walk in, so he is just wearing his runners.

Reddy-orange is a dominant color in shrines and pagodas.

Torries at the Torii Gate. 
Torii gates mark the entrance to sacred Shinto shrines.  They are actually demarcations between the outer world and the inner world. 
Many people bow as they enter the gates.  In fact, bowing is a common practice everywhere in Japan.  They bow to show respect.  The deeper the bow, the greater the respect.

Love that umbrella.  And aren't we cute?

This was our choice for a photo because LeRon loves the stone lanterns.  We may yet see a large stone lantern in our yard at home (but maybe not quite this large).  We have a very small one already.
Notice the fan LeRon is using.  Yes, men in Japan definitely use fans.  Either the traditional fans or the battery-powered ones.

Very narrow stone bridge.  It was a little hard to shuffle along it with my pinched toes!

Parks in Japan are filled with greenery and water features.  So lovely, even on a hot, hot day.

Now the photographer is gone and we are wandering around the Yasaka Shinto Shrine.  The main hall is lavishly decorated with lanterns and heavy sacred ropes.  

Hundreds of paper lanterns adorn the main hall at the Shinto Shrine.  Anciently they were lit with oil lamps but now they use LED lights at night.

We met these lovely ladies from Mexico who had also rented colorful kimonos and were enjoying the Shrine and the heat (after all, they are from hot Mexico).  Notice that I have changed into runners.  No more split-toe sandals for me.

Here's LeRon beside a small purification fountain.  

The bamboo spout feeds water into the stone basin and the wooden ladle is used to scoop water for ritual cleansing.

Almost finished with the kimonos.  Notice the pink and white papers tied to the wall.  We see colored papers like this a lot.  They are "omikuji" or fortune-telling paper slips.  For a few yen you can choose a paper to tell your fortune.

And no, we didn't buy a kimono.  Very costly.  Plus, it's an art to put it on and you have to do it right, so there's not much point in buying one.  I do have a simpler yukata that LeRon brought home from his junior mission to give to his wife, whoever she turned out to be.  (Thankfully, she turned out to be me).  A yukata is lighter weight and less complicated to wear.  More like a housecoat or something for summer wear.

Now we're back on the street.  Here's a welcoming ceramic figure of a tanuki (a raccoon dog) on the right, along with a bamboo spout and stone water basin for purification.  Also notice those three hanging white pieces of fabric with writing.  You see that everywhere in entryways to stores and restaurants.  You have to duck under the cloths to enter.  Also notice the bamboo screening.

A tanuki is a real Japanese raccoon dog.  It looks much like a raccoon but is actually a member of the dog family and is also related to foxes and wolves.  It can even climb trees, unlike dogs.  Tanukis are also mentioned in Japanese myths as having magical powers.  Maybe that's why the ceramic tanuki is there to welcome visitors in the above photo. 

See https://www.istockphoto.com/photos/tanuki for images of the darling cute tanuki.  They look like they would make great pets but they are actually wild animals.

Now we're entering the well-known Teramachi shopping street in the Gion District of Kyoto.  It's a covered street with lots of shopping.

As a young missionary, LeRon and his companion often street-contacted in shopping malls such as this.  Today, it's very quiet.

Hidden amongst the stores are small shrines.  Could this round stone basin be a baptismal font or some kind of purification basin?

A Buddhist temple and lovely stone lantern.  Who knew there were so many places of worship on a busy shopping street?

LeRon with the old and the new.  You can see that I am the one taking the pictures since I'm never in them and we don't do selfies very well.

Yata-dera Temple on the Teramachi shopping street.  The bronze bell in the center back is rung during festivals to guide spirits back to the after-life.  Gorgeous colors too.

Many believe that this statue in the Yata-dera Temple has healing powers and they come here to touch the statue to access that power.  Notice the sliding rice-paper screens and the hanging lanterns.

Also within the Yata-dera Temple are stone statues wearing bibs or aprons.  The aprons symbolize protection from evil spirits and the bibs honor children who have died.  The red color traditionally wards off evil spirits and illnesses.

These Sukajan bomber jackets are very popular with tourists and locals.  Pricey too.  LeRon considered buying one but then he wondered when he would ever wear it.  So no, he didn't buy it.
  

A chopstick store!  Who knew there were so many different kinds?  (If you've lived in Japan, you know).  And those colorful things on the table are not cookies.  They are chopstick rests (hashioki).  Places to put your chopsticks to keep them off the table.

Many restaurants display their food in the window.  That way, you can just point: "I want this."  Kind of nice to see what your food is really going to look like.  A picture of the food is often nowhere near what the food actually looks like (at least in western restaurants).

Just off the shopping street is the entrance to the Chugen-ji Temple.  So many places to calm down from busy shopping and eating and to contemplate life for a while.  Contemplation is good for the soul.  Meditation is a significant part of both Buddhism and Shintoism and the parks surrounding the temples and shrines invite peaceful contemplation.

It's the end of a perfect day.  Yes, hot.  But perfect in every other way.  We're back at the Kyoto Train Station, which is like a huge city in itself.  Took us forever to find the many restaurants.  Now for a bit of food.  We love Japanese food and are anxious to have some more.  Fun to watch them prepare it.  See video below.

We shared a huge okonomiyaki -- a fried dish made with shredded cabbage, pork and other things and flour batter, topped with okonomiyaki sauce and Japanese Kewpie mayonnaise.  Kewpie mayo differs from western mayonnaise and is so delicious.  It uses egg yolk (not the whole egg) and a blend of vinegars and MSG.  It's thicker than western mayo and has a tangy yet sweet (but not too sweet) taste.

The okonomiyaki was extremely filling and brought back happy memories for LeRon.  He ate it a lot as a young missionary.  He said it actually wasn't as tasty as he remembered.

Fun to watch the food being prepared.

We passed this Heather store (named after our daughter Heather, I am sure) multiple times.  We got lost and back tracked and asked and got lost again.  The Kyoto Train Station is gigantic.  Apparently there are over 300 stores and restaurants in the train station.  If you lived here, you would never have to leave the station!

At last.  Back at the hotel.  A "BellaBot" is trying to tell us something.  Japan has lots of robots.  After all, Japan is one of the top tech countries in the world.

Good night!  More to come as I continue to go through the pictures.  More days south of Tokyo and then five days in the cooler Hokkaido Island.  Such a fun (and exhausting) adventure.  

Japan Adventure (Wait . . . Did you say Japan?)

Yes, Japan!  LeRon served his junior mission in Japan from 1972-1974 and has never been back . . . until now.  We received permission from the Philippines Area President and from our Cebu Temple President to leave our mission and travel to Japan during the two-week temple closure.  We loved Japan.  So clean.  Friendly people.  Delicious food.

We spent the first week south of Tokyo where it was hot, hot, hot.  And humid also.  Almost worse than Cebu.  The second week, we traveled north to Hokkaido where it was delightfully cooler.  More on that later.

Here we are in the Cebu Mactan International Airport, ready for our 2-week adventure in Japan.  Traveling light, as always.  People are surprised when they learn that we even spent a month in New Zealand with just our carry-ons.  We wouldn't have won any fashion contests but it worked for us. 

A kind airport worker offered to take our picture next to the art installation that is described below.  The Filipino people are generally kind and friendly and thoughtful.

Lots of cultural sculptures in Mactan International Airport.  This one, called "1521," was installed in 2021 in celebration of the 500th anniversary of Ferdinand Magellan's arrival in the Philippines and the start of Christianity here.  It's made of driftwood and other native woods and is by Filipino artist Kidlaf Tahimik.

Arrival in the Osaka Kansai Airport.  LeRon's first time back in Japan after he left it 52 years ago.  Just a 4 1/2 hour flight from Cebu.  LeRon's happy to be back and I'm happy to be with him.  From Osaka we took the train down to Himeji, where we will overnight.  Train travel is very slick here in Japan.

Our first look at the Himeji Castle, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  There are about 80 buildings and other structures connected with the castle keep itself.
It's very hot and I'm glad I found a kid's hat that actually fits my tiny head. 

The Himeji Castle is also called the White Heron Castle because of its very white exterior that resembles a bird in flight.  It's Japan's best preserved and most visited castle.

The Himeji Castle began as a fort in the 14th century and was, amazingly, never destroyed by fire, earthquake, or war.  Amazing because Japan is on the notorious "Ring of Fire," which is known for its volcanos and earthquakes.  And amazing also that it survived WWII. 

The cicadas were out in full force.  I hadn't realized cicadas were such large insects -- about 1-2 inches long -- until we saw some.  Once, LeRon even saw a cicada fighting with a tree frog.
And what a noise they make!  Even LeRon with his limited hearing could hear them.  We heard them all over Japan and kind of got used to them, but at first, the sound was overwhelming.  Kind of like a buzz-saw going all the time.  See video below of the sound of the cicadas.

Click here for more information about the Himeji Castle.  And can you imagine learning to read Japanese characters?  Twenty-six letters in our alphabet is nothing compared to thousands of characters that one needs to learn just to read a Japanese newspaper.  LeRon, as a missionary, studied the Japanese language every day of his mission, right to the end of the two years.  He became quite fluent in reading as well as speaking.

The grounds around the Himeji Castle were gorgeous.  Delightfully green and the shade helped us feel somewhat cooler.

Bridges, greenery, rocks, and water with colorful koi fish feature prominently in Japanese gardens.  So peaceful.

LeRon has happy memories of so many kinds of stone lanterns.  I asked google if the different lanterns have meanings.  And yes, in Buddhist traditions, "the light of the lantern represents the illumination of Buddha's teachings, guiding believers through the darkness of ignorance."  (https://www.japan-experience.com/plan-your-trip/to-know/understanding-japan/stone-lanterns).

Kind of like, in Christian doctrine, that Jesus Christ is the "Light of of the World."  Every person born has been given a portion of that light, but in the secular world, we call it our conscience.
In the New Testament, St. John says that he was called to witness of the Light and that "That was the true Light, which lighteth every man that cometh into the world."
St. John 1:9

You will see many pictures of lanterns.  In the early days they actually functioned as lanterns.  But they were functions with meaning, such as wisdom or luck.

LeRon likes lanterns and I like trees.  Bamboo is so interesting.  It grows quickly and is used in many structures and fences.  The bark is so smooth.  We have seen bamboo in many countries, including on our mission in Kenya.

It was so hot that sweat is running down my face and arms.  But what a lovely walk in a very lovely park.

So many kinds of stone lanterns.

We could stand the heat for only so long, so a closer view of Himeji Castle will have to wait for another time.  We're back to the taxis and amazingly we have the same driver as we had to come here.  Taxis in Japan are expensive but high class, with white-gloved taxi drivers in suits, and lacy white seat covers.  The driver opens and closes the door from his steering wheel.

I loved listening to LeRon and the driver converse in Japanese.  He was so surprised that a "gaijin" (pronounced guy-jean), an "outsider," could speak Japanese.  But when LeRon's Japanese ran out, they both used Google Translate to communicate.  Here they are, talking together with their cell phones. 

What a marvelous invention is Google Translate.  I remember that at BYU more than 50 years ago, it was determined that computers would never be able to translate like a human could.  My brother Bruce worked with Dr. Ashton of WordPerfect as they tried to write translation programs.  And it was determined that it couldn't be done, what with all the nuances of different languages.  But surprise!  It has happened!

Through the years, LeRon has often mentioned how much he loved a cold drink called "calpis."  And today he found it again.  Calpis is a sweet (but not too sweet) milky-looking non-carbonated drink.  He remembers how much he, as a young missionary, loved a cold bottle of calpis on a hot day.

We're on a train, speeding from Himeji to Osaka where we will stop for a short visit to see places where LeRon worked on his mission.  I was impressed that my phone could take such a clear picture as we sped onward.  Old and new buildings.  Much has changed in the past 50 years.

So many rice fields everywhere.  Wherever there's a piece of land, they grow rice.  It takes a lot of rice to feed 122 million people.  Again, this picture was taken from the train.

LeRon used pay telephones like this to phone home once a year at Christmas time.  No cell phones back then.  We wondered if anyone ever uses these phones now.  There were several working green phones, so maybe someone uses them in an emergency.

551 Horai is famous for its steamed pork buns called "butaman".  They are hand-wrapped sweet dough that is filled with pork and sweet onions.  No, we didn't try them because the line was too long.  It was a very popular place.  These pork buns are only found in this area of Japan.

We left our bags in a locker at the train station so we could explore a bit of Osaka where LeRon spent much of his time as a missionary.  For some reason, I can't find any photos of Osaka.  Did we take any?  My memory is starting to fade.  Anyway, back on to the train to Kyoto.

The Kyoto train station is like a city.  Huge shopping and dining areas.  So huge that we got lost several times.  Delicious pork don buri (pork cutlet over rice).  One of our favorite Japanese dishes.

No, we didn't stay in the very expensive Kyoto Tower Hotel, but we did stay very close to the train station.  But the train station is so big that we got lost and it took us an hour to find our way through the station to our hotel.

Another taxi ride and another attempt at Japanese and also Google Translate.  We're going from our hotel to the very famous Kinkaku-ji Temple, also known as the Golden Pagoda.  The top two floors are entirely covered with gold leaf.  So anxious to see it.

Seriously?  Policemen guarding the crosswalks?  Here's the entrance to the Golden Pagoda.

You know me and flowers.  I love them.  A beautiful lotus blossom.

First look at the gorgeous Golden Pagoda and grounds.

We were totally awed at the beauty of the place.  The original pagoda was built in 1397 for the ruler of Japan and then it became a monastery.  It burned down in 1950 but in 1955 an exact replica was built.

Click to enlarge this beautiful photo.  Then see the video below which LeRon took of the place.  You can hear the cicadas.

The gold and green are stunning.

Beautiful from any angle.

The golden rooster on top of the pagoda is not a rooster, but a phoenix.  The phoenix is a symbol of Japanese royalty and also symbolizes peace and harmony.  Also, because the mythical phoenix rose from the ashes, it becomes a symbol of protection from fire.  Interesting that a monk burned down the pagoda in 1950.  Thankfully it has been rebuilt.

The tree growing on the bamboo scaffolding in the very center of the picture is actually a pine tree that has been growing for over 600 years.  It has been pruned and trained to grow like this and is supposed to represent a sailing ship pointing west toward Buddhist paradise.

Notice the worker on the right who is sweeping leaves.  His jacket looks all puffy.  That is because workers in hot climates wear battery-operated fan-cooled jackets.  In Japan, they are called "kuchofuku."  We've also seen them in the Philippines.  That's the only way workers can survive in hot, humid climates.

Also zoom in on the picture and you will see the "split toed" boots this worker is wearing.  They are called "jika-tabi."  When the vulcanization process of rubber was invented, this rubber was added to the jika-tabi, making them perfect for outdoor work. 

Can't get enough of the beauty of this place.  The water is so calm and the reflections are perfect.  We are used to windy weather in southern Alberta, so the calmness is almost strange to us.

Close-up of the phoenix on the pagoda.  Hopefully it will protect from further fire.

Traditional Buddhist stone figurines.  People toss coins at them for good luck.  If the coins land in the metal cup, their wishes will come true.

Click on this picture and you will see a stone lantern in the far right.

So many kinds of lanterns and other statuary.

LeRon pointed out the very thick thatch on this roof, which is made of rice straw.  Water-proof and probably helps to control temperature somewhat.  It's really hot right now.  About 38 C.  But it gets cold in the winter and snows here too.  
LeRon remembers huddling around a "seki" stove to get warm in the winter.

Look at how thick the rice straw is.  It takes a lot of rice to feed the people and a lot of rice to make the straw for the roofs.

The above video shows the sound of the very loud cicadas.  Actually, LeRon saw the cicada and it was fighting with a tree frog.  So all that sound came from just one cicada.  Amazing!  The cicada is somewhere in the picture but I can't see it.

Just as we were leaving the Golden Pagoda, we saw this sign for ice cream with real gold flakes.  Yes, we need to try it!

Here are our golden ice cream cones.  Yes, it's real gold and yes, you can eat it.  It's tasteless and apparently just goes right through you.  So now we can say that we've eaten gold!

Real gold!

Well, that's not quite all of our adventures from Day 3 of our Japan Adventure.  More yet to come.